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Chapslee, Shimla
On the northeastern spur of the Shimla range, this charming home is the most authentically old-world lodging in town. Originally built in 1835 as the summer residence of a British family, the house received an Edwardian face-lift in 1896 with teak paneling (part of the same consignment used for the Viceregal Lodge), wood parquet floors, and a dramatic staircase; its current incarnation was undertaken when it became the summer residence of the Kapurthala royals. Chapslee's obvious aesthetic pleasures are a good match for the fairy-tale view of Shimla at twilight; with whiskey in hand; you can watch the city's lights come on from the garden terrace.
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Getting There
By Road: You can drive directly from Chandigarh, following National Highway 21 south until you join the main Delhi-Shimla road.
By Air: Shimla's Jabbarhatti Airport is 23 km from the city.
By Train: The most romantic way to get to Shimla, the Himalayan Queen runs from New Delhi to Kalka (640m/2,050 ft. above sea level), where the train switches to narrow-gauge track and continues on to Shimla (at 2,060m/6,500 ft.).
Things to do
The Vice-Regal Lodge
The State Museum
Jakhoo Temple
The Mall
Maria Bros., the famous shop for books and antiquities.
The environs of Shimla, however are perhaps its most attractive feature;
Golf at scenic Naldera - that inspired Lord Curzon to name his daughter after it
Mahaseer fishing and hot sulphur springs at Tattapani
Picnics in the Seog Forest
Tea at Carignano
Walks from Kufri to Fagu through the countryside with the panorama of the snow-capped Kinner Kailash range stretched across the horizon
Chail, Narkanda, or an overnight stay at the Jalori Pass
Accommodation
Resplendent with heirlooms such as Gobelin tapestries, rare textiles and cabinetry from the Doge's palace in Venice, chandeliers from Murano, blue pottery jardinières from Multan, Peshwa vases, Persian carpets, marble statuary and a collection of Indian object d'arts, Chapslee exudes old world charm.
Chapslee offers six elegantly appointed suites, a library and card room, tennis court and croquet lawn.
Be sure to request either of the two upstairs suites; the original master bedroom affords lovely valley views, a massive brass four-poster bed, and delicate ornamentation, as well as a vast bathroom with a raised tub, an enormous shower, a bidet, and its own fireplace.
Eating
Chapslee's excellent kitchen prepares dishes influenced by the British, as well as delectable tandoori chicken and mouthwatering shami kebabs.
It is known for its cuisine and has found pride of place in almost all leading articles and publications on travel and architecture.
Facilities
The building is settled in a garden with large trees and tropical vegetation, contributing to the unique ambience of Fort Cochin. The garden houses a swimming pool, an ancient stage for regular cultural events and the restaurant.
The Malabar House offers its own program of cultural performances on the ancient stage in the patio.
The travel desk at the front office undertakes air and rail bookings, organizes cruises, reserves stays at the Malabar Escapes as well as houseboats in the backwaters and arranges private tours. Licensed guides are available on request.
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